Slingsby King Kite 1/4

[bocorvin]

Bonjour a tous,

After that tricky first piece of sheeting, I went on with the top of the fuselage, which was still temporarily attached to the building jig. Scarfing the thin plywood is a time-consuming job, especially if the panels are not straight. I made up a few sanding tools in the hope that I would make fewer mistakes



By the way, the self-adhesive sandpaper “easy-touch” is really great
A little more about this glue technique, I found info on Retroplane and also on SSUK.
After sanding and fitting, apply glue to



and let it dry until it is no longer white. After drying I have repeated the process to get more glue thickness. The fit with the scarfed joints, which are also curved, is critical and I don't know if I can work accurately enough. Another problem was that the horizontal (longitudinal) seam was difficult to straighten, I found it difficult to get each panel exactly in place. I temporarily fixed with it clamps

and glued it with a iron (middle position, 150gr). I decided to make the remaining panels a bit too long and later sand them to the correct length, with another sanding tool





On the same picture the connection horizontal stabiler / fin is done . A picture of the top of the fuselage,




The fuselage is now stiff enough to remove it from the building jig.


Vincent (DB)

[Sed]

Bonjour Vincent,

Superbe ce fuselage, du très beau travail !
Je ferai peut-être un essai avec cette méthode de collage au fer, ça a l'air de bien fonctionner .

Bonne continuation.

[bocorvin]

Bonjour Sed,

Thanks for your nice comments
About the glueing technique; I find it hard to believe that it is as strong as thick cyano, but hopefully I am wrong!
After the panels are fixed, I put thick cyano on the inside, just to be sure. The glueing itself is much less hectic and that a big plus!

Vincent (DB)

[patte de loup]

nice job , Vince
Pat'

[texier]

[bocorvin]

Hi Pat'

Hi Texier,

I used an English tutorial, very informative.

http://www.ghostsquadron.co.uk/construction_vids_and_tips.html

and Pierre Delrieu used it on his Vizzola in 2016;

http://www.retroplane.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4656&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=45

Hope you have enough info

Vincent (DB)

[bocorvin]

Hi Texier,

about the glue; I use ordinary PVA, I think that is the cheap white woodglue, indeed vinelique. In the tutorial he says at a certain moment that the heat activates the glue, so don't let it dry completely.


Bonjour a tous,


After the fuselage was detached from the construction setup, I decided to do the rc part first. It's tempting to continue building, but now everything is much more accessible. I had already more or less made the servo tray and the battery box. To be able to get the latter one out easily I made a kind of clip from 2 layers of 0.6 plywood and a short piece of spruce, which you can unlock with one finger

. Next to the switch I placed the shottky diode, made two plugs for both receiver batteries and plugs for the lead to the receiver placed more to the rear of the fuselage.

. I ran this wire between the inner and (not yet in place) outer skin

. Behind the backrest of the pilot I made an “holder” for the receiver, antennas and space for the vario



I had already made the servo tray, I had to glue 2mm extra strips under the rudder servo to make enough vertical space between the actuation cables and rods.
The elevator actuation works with a 1mm steel wire pull / push rod, in a double plastic guide



To be able to mount and dismount the horizontal stabiler, I made the last 70mm of this rod hinged. I bent a very small eye in the 1mm rod, in which the pin of the quicklink fitted tightly. Just bend a slightly too big eye and carefully make it smaller with pliers until it fits exactly.



I can lift that moveble part and then attach the other quicklink to the rudderhorn of the elevator. Then the whole stabiler can be lowered in place and the moveble part of the actuation rod comes “in line” and operates without any slop.
The rudder is operated with two pull / pull cables (20kg strong). They are attached to the rudderhorns of the rudder with self-locking steel wire hooks, so that the rudder can easily be disassembled for transport





The controls are moving nicely, now I can go on sheeting the fuselage


Vincent (DB)

[de Schaetzen Harold]

Dear Vincent,

Congratulations for your "every day" new construction solution.
This time the connection with your horizontal stabiliser. Simple and easy!

Congratulation for your idea to hidden, in the cockpit, the electrical wiring between 2 panels. They are defintively glued?

I am waiting for your next building solution.

Best regards.
Harold

[bocorvin]

Dear Harold,

Glad you liked the idea of the horizontal stabilizer:D .
I had no intention glueing the wire between the in and outside of the nose of the fuselage. I can put the surplus of wire just in that space, always nice when a connector is broken or someting like that.

Best regards,

Vincent

[sebastian92]

Hello Vincent,
always you have interesting solutions
a question : where do you find this so longers parts ?



I coud do it by myself… but if it's not too expensive…
you have an address ?
Continue like this

[bocorvin]

Hi Sebastian,

Here is the link to the shop, in the Netherlands,
https://hobbyin.nl/

I try to find these items, put I couldn't find them. Its M2.
Tomorrow I have to order some things, I can ask if he still has them.

Vincent (DB)

[sebastian92]

I don't find it too… perhaps out of sale ?
But I don't think they post to France… and they have no PayPal.

Don't bother with that, I'll make it with threaded rod, or turning it…

Many thanks !

[bocorvin]

I bought these for my FG-2, thats 4 years ago....
Maybe you can silver solder an eyelet to een piece of M2...

I'll ask hem tomorrow.

Vincent (DB)

[VincentB]

Ca va très vite à fabriquer, je me les fait, tige filetée de 3mm, quelques coups de marteau sur le bout pour aplanir, et perçage... voir par exemple bas de page www.retroplane.net/bydgoszczanka/page1.htm

[ThomasF]

Ich habe für den gleichen Zweck gekauft.





Gruß
Thomas

[bocorvin]

Bonjour a tous,
Now I could cover the bottom of the fuselage. I came up with a sanding tool so I could clamp the panels, otherwise my fingers would get cramped

A batten attached to my worktop with a screw clamp , a piece of aluminum angle and two large spring clamps. The sanding went a bit better now

Fuselage and panel with glue , panel in position and secured with a hot iron.







After a few days it starts to become a fuselage



Next is the nose, lots of small panels and that will take some time....

Vincent (DB)

[Sed]

Hi Vincent,

Very great job as usual !
A little question : have you use 0.6mm plywood for the complete fuselage ? And for the nose ?

Good evening.

[bocorvin]

Hi Sed,

Thanks for yout nice words .
Yes I am using 0.6 mm ply for the fuselage. I will cover the nose cone (pif?) with 0.6 mm veneer (thin, massive wood) so I can sand it without showing the dark glue.

Vincent(DB)

[ManfredNeu]

Hallo Vincent,
sehr saubere Arbeit und das mit der Schleifhilfe ist eine gute Idee. Danke . Das werde ich auch ausprobieren.
Gruß
Manfred

[texier]

Hello Vincent,

Your work on the panels is top It is really valuable to spend time on building tools when we see the accurate result !

[Hibernatus]

Salut

Belle réalisation pour ces coffrages.

@+Christian

[Clifton]

Comme d'habitude, de beaux modèles et une belle construction. Bravo !

[bocorvin]

Thanks for your nice comments,

Vincent (DB)

[bocorvin]

Bonjour a tous,
The nose of the fuselage is a challenging job. It's important how the fuselage looks, so I hope to do well

I had roughly sanded the nose into shape and I marked the strips on it with a pencil

At the connection to the cockpit cover they follow the round frame shape. Further forward, the strips flatten so that they can be bent towards the tip of the nose. There is no double bending



I came up with the idea to mark the strips with a small router, so you can sand some without sanding away the marking.



Strip by strip, the nose is covered. For these strips I use veneer instead of ply and I glued them with thick cyano

The result





The fuselage is now 1085 gr with 3 servo's and receiver.
Now I am starting the preparations for the wings and the fairing wing/fuselage.

Vincent (DB)

[ThomasF]

Sehr schön Vincent, ich hoffe wir können im Sommer wieder zusammen fliegen.

Gruß
Thomas

[bocorvin]

Danke Thomas and ja, dass hoffe Ich auch

Gruß

Vincen(DB)

[Sed]

Superbe Vincent !
Et après la teinte, on ne verra plus de différence entre le CTP et le bois de placage .

Bonne continuation.

[bocorvin]

Merci beaucoup Sed ,

You are right, there is not much difference in colour after colouring it. I might make it a bit darker.... This is my Gull


When the glider leaves the factory, its quite light, but after a year or two they become much darker.

On this Petrel there is a big difference in colour. Maybe I can give the nose a darker colour? I think about it

Vincent (DB)

[Johannes]

Hi Vincent,
das Holz hast du toll bearbeitet

LG Johannes

[bocorvin]

Danke Johannes .

Jetzt die Flugel, ich gehe weiter in English ,
The profile choice I found difficult, the real King Kite had a profile NACA 23021 which looked quite symmetrical. The profile and thickness determine the "looks" of the aircraft and so I ended up with HQ 2.5 with a thickness of 12% decreasing to 10 at the tip. With the flaps (and the ailerons, not prototypical) I can make more camber . With Devwing I drew the wing

Adri was kind enough to mill the ribs and the web plates. The root ribs in 2mm plywood and the rest in 2.5mm medium-hard balsa.

With the program “Calculdelongeron” I calculated the main spar, 24X4mm spruce on top and bottom at the root to 2x10mm at the tip. Should be able to take 10G, not including sheeting. By the way, the wing is completely sheeted with 0.6mm plywood, like the real one. I had previously made a glass / epoxy wing joiner with dihedral that fits in 20x20mm aluminum square profile. Because it has a gull wing, I made a building board with the gull angle and laminated the spars in that angle too.



building the wing



Servo holder, all 4 made in one go



All the web plates glued, left open at the root. So the space between the aluminum square and the main spar can be filled with epoxy /micro balloons.

It's starting to look like a wing!

I'm going to build the other wing now.

Vincent(DB)